Portulacaria afra The scientific names
come from the plant’s marked similarity to Purslane (the genus Portulaca)
to which it is related. Afra because it is native to Africa.
It goes by many common names:
Dwarf Jade, Elephant bush, in Afrikans it is called ‘Spekboom’ (porkbush). In
its native region the it is referred to as isiCococo (Zulu); iGqwanitsha
(Xhoza).
Distribution and habitat: eastern parts of South Africa
from the Eastern Cape northwards, crossing the national border into Mozambique.
It thrives in warm regions in poor and sandy soils as well as rocky outcrops.
Although often called Dwarf Jade,
it is not related to the familiar Jade plant (Crassula arboecens) though they
share a habitat and ecological niche. The other common name elephant bush
is accurate-it is closely associated with the elephant, as a source of
food. Although the plant does produce seed, it reproduces vegetatively as well.
As elephants feed any uneaten shoots and branches that fall to the ground
have a high rate of rooting. The plant and the animal have evolved together and
their survival strategy depends on each other. At Addo National Park,
elephants feed heavily on the plant with no outside competition, and
Portulacaria thrives and is wide spread. Outside the park the plants are eaten
by goats that eat the plant from ground level upwards preventing the plant from
spreading vegetatively. Consequently these plants must rely solely on seed to
proliferate the species which often proves difficult in such a dry climate. It
is observed that outside the park the plant is becoming sparse as a result of
overgrazing and poor regeneration.
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| Elephant bush covered in bloom. Experts claim the homey is the best for flavor and texture. Note the interesting trunk texture and shape, even much smaller trees can develop similar attributes. |
Aside from elephants and goats,
the plant is readily consumed by many animals both domestic and wild, and that
includes humans. The leaves have a sour or tart flavor, and can be eaten
fresh or cooked in various ways. Aside from food, traditional medical uses
include the increasing of breast milk by lactating mothers. The leaves are used
to quench thirst, sucking a leaf is used to treat exhaustion, dehydration and
heat stroke. Crushed leaves can be rubbed on blisters and corns on the feet to
provide relief. The leaves are chewed as a treatment for sore throat and mouth
infections while the astringent juice is used for soothing ailments of the skin
such as pimples, rashes and insect stings. The juice is also used as an
antiseptic and as a treatment for sunburn. The honey made from the flowers of
Portulacaria is said to be " unsurpassable
in flavour and texture" by
one reference.
The plant is widely grown around
the world, both as potted plant indoors and outside. It can be used as a
hedge and will take shearing. It’s desert origins make it able to
withstand less than ideal living conditions, so it has no trouble withstanding
the dry conditions inside the average home. Several named varieties are
available, including a prostrate/weeping form, and several variegated types.
All of the proceeding background
may seem merely interesting, but look at some of the prominent clues, and you
can see why this plant is a stellar candidate for bonsai: it comes from a dry
habitat and is not fussy about water; it evolved to grow in what we use for
bonsai potting mix, and it takes pruning well-what term would mean better than
well.
As a bonsai, this plant can be
grown in most every style. It’s natural form is an upright tree, but multiple
trunk or cascading styles can be done. It’s leaf form is smaller and more
tree like the very similar true Jade plant, which with its smooth trunk and
large plump leaves never makes a convincingly tree like image to my mind.
Portulacaria responds to bonsai cultivation with small leaves, short internodes
and lovely, well defined foliage masses. Sizes from shohin on up to
two or four man are possible and often seen, though the logistics of providing
light and warm temperatures in northern latitudes means the largest sizes are
best left to those who can let the plant remain outdoors all year-unless you
have a few energetic interns and a green house!
They bud back from nodes fairly
readily. If stumps are left during pruning, they will eventually dry out and
fall off the plant. Portulacaria is easily
developed as bonsai with clip and grow techniques, and once an attractive
profile is reached they should be pinched relentless relentlessly to maintain
the look. They will develop nice tight pads of tiny leaves. New growth is
fleshy, as would be expected for a succulent, though older growth becomes
quite solid, though it never truly lignifies. Most sources advise clip
and grow techniques for styling, but the plant will respond to wire. Older
branches can be a bit brittle, and individual leaves must be avoided.
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| The late Jim Smith works on one of his Portulacaria bonsai. A tropical bonsai pioneer, Smith was a leading exponent of the species as bonsai |
Portulacaria can be propagated
with almost no effort. Sprigs of just a few nodes will strike roots, as
will quite large branches. In South Africa the plant is used for land
reclamation projects, and pretty massive branches are planted in place
and grow with a high success rate(more proof of how easily the plant reproduces
from cuttings, and how well it will grow in the poorest of soils). It will also
root from single leaves! This ease of rooting means that starting new
bonsai from the well branched trimmings from older bonsai means an
endless supply of new plants-simply place to cutting in bonsai soil in
the bonsai pot it will occupy and wait. Some sources advise a drying out
period, especially for larger cutting to develop a ‘scab’ on the cut end, and
use of rooting hormone is also advocated in some sources and claim as unnecessary
by other. Personal experience shows rooting hormone is not needed, and that if
you have the time and patience, a waiting period with cutting is worth doing
but certainly not a nessecity. I have seen that after pruning a Portulacaria
the fallen clippings can lay
on the workbench an amazing long time with out withering, and make viable
cuttings.
Portulacria are heavy feeders. Content to sit and tread water, so to speak,
in poor soil, if fertilized at low levels frequently, they will grow like
gangbusters-if in enough sun. I give mine full strength fisj emulsion several times
a week in summer growing season. Since they are getting loads of sun AND are
pinched, they do not grow leggy. Fertilizing at that rate in winter would
produce grossly etiolated plants. These are plants that can take all day,
unrelenting, merciless all day sun that would shrivel a juniper and love it.
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| Mass produced, commercial grade bonsai like this are cranked out in the thousands. It takes just a bit of time and effort to make this into a nice looking bonsai. |
Watering these plants requires
some caution. Outside in high summer, during their active growth ( which
is very, very active!) they can be watered like any other bonsai. Indoors, with
less light and heat, living at a slower pace, they can be overwatered
shockingly easily.
Overwatered Portulacaria start to
drop leaves. Growers who fail to observe there is a problem, and who keep
dumping on the water will end up with a plant that has defoliated its self
and rotten roots as well. Even from this sad circumstance the plant is tough
enough to come back if watered judiciously. I’ve fought with mine every
winter I have had them, and Ive finally learned to water much, much less than
you think they need during the winter.
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| A bonsai by Adam Lavigne shows what a bit of wire and imagination can do! |
That caution with moisture extends
to repotting time. These plants, like most tropicals, can be repotted
anytime, but once the task is completed, skip one familiar step-Don’t
Water! Adam Lavigne recommends this rule, and I agree- Don’t water until
you see the plant putting out new growth, otherwise you risk a serious case of
rot. His logic is that unlike ‘regular’ plants, where moisture encourages
new roots, succulents send out roots to look for moisture. Starting
repotted plants-or cutting-dry encourages/forces them to throw out new roots.
Though it is a tropical, it can
stand a bit of cold, like most desert dwellers. It can survive to freezing,
though it may sulk and temperatures lower still may damage the plant. San
Marcos Growers,a California wholesaler reports them as hardy to 25 degrees from
practical experience, and plants survived a bout of -20 degrees ( with stem
damage).
If you want even more information about this tremendous plant, look here:
http://ofbonsai.org/species-specific/tropical/portulacaria-afra-a-monograph-part-one
http://ofbonsai.org/species-specific/tropical/portulacaria-afra-a-monograph-part-two
ALso, Florida bonsai artist Adam Lavigne uses the sepies frequnelty, check out his excellant blog:
https://adamaskwhy.com/
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| A Portulacaria obviously grown indoors, under less than ideal light conditions. The internodes-space between leaves-are long, and the plant is lanky. Stock like this has tremendous potential as bonsai. |
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