Mother Nature, that old so and so...

Bonsai may be an old, even ancient pursuit, but somehow it finds ways to be  a new and different experience every growing season.

I’ve dealt with the same pests that every plant grower has wrestled with. Aphids seemed to be the the big problem, every year  the little suckers fins the soft new growth of the quinces, cotoneasters and crabapples and can make a mess if they are not dealt with swiftly and severely. Scale shows up once in a while as well.

Thirty years in bonsai, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Japanese beetle on any of my trees. But they are making up for it this summer with a real effort. There was a grape arbor behind my parent’s house, and every summer it would be covered with Japanese beetle. It got to a sort of sport, in the cruel innocence way of kids, to ‘flick’ the bugs of the leaves one by one,  appoint for each bug, double score for beetles that wee mating, and an extra special recognition for those with strong enough fingers to flick the pets hard enough to disable.   I find myself doing the same sort of damage control on my bonsai now. It’s an irony that I’ll make an effort not to step on bees or will shoo a spider out of the house rather than squash it, but I feel no sorrow at the satisfying snap of a crushed Japanese beetle.

Sometimes the ingenuity of a pest can be the fascinating thing about dealing with them.  Every gardener has had to deal with rabbits, and if you’re serious about raising  lettuce or spinach you’ve probably got a fenced area to do the  growing. I put in a double row of bush beans this year, and expected my only trouble would be from slugs. Once the beans had put out one set of true leaves, I thought all danger from slugs was past. Imagine my surprise and anger when I came out to the backyard to find two rows of beans stems-no leaves! The rabbits had added another green to their menu, and kept coming back for it.  As the bean plants tried to keep growing, the rabbits made return visits to clip of the next flush of fully formed leaves. The beans pooped out after three ties, and the rabbits moved on to other items in the back yard. One of the common names of Dwarf Jade is Elephant Bush, since they are relished  by these animals in their South African native range.

Well, its not just large herbivores that appreciate this plant, but smaller ones too. I was giving a few of my dwarf jades a trim and decided to take of a rather thick well formed branch. Every bonsai  grower knows what that means-a ready to go new tree!  Dwarf jade set from cuttings with no real effort, so I put the trimmed piece in the dirt under my potting bench intending to deal with  getting into a container once Id finished other projects.  Two days later ( this is not a real problem, I have had dwarf jade cuttings sit on a bench several weeks and root well when potted-some advocate for this method of starting cuttings to avoid rotting in damp medium) when I came to deal with the cutting in question, I was shocked to find it was missing every single leaf!  Some hungry little bunny took the time and courtesy to nip off each and every succulent green leaf leaving all the stems intact.

If you, like me always thought of rabbits eating grass and an occasional carrot. It can be surprising how wide ranging their diet can be-and what heights and lengths they will go to get it.  There is a row of cork barked elms of some sort that line a long stretch of road in a residential development not far from me. They set seeds in the fall, and it’s easy to go gather a handful or two in early spring, after Mother Nature has stratified them for me.  I had a growing flat full of these  seedlings going well, with maybe 3 or 4 true leaves and put them out on the front porch to get some air and sun. That porch is a concrete rectangle with  two sides facing the house, the other two surrounded by flower beds. Its two steps up from the ground to the porch top, and the trees were at the end of the rectangle opposite the steps.

One morning I come out to check the little elms, and found that every single one had been mowed down to about ½ inch above the soil level. Some how that rabbit knew they were there, and then either climbed the steps and crossed the porch  to get to them, or leapt up almost three feet , if it decided to skip the stairs.  With all the lovely green chemically enhanced grass that my neighbors make sure is available, why would the varmint take such effort to chew on some sticks?

DIY-Bonsai Work Stand & Turntable

 I've wanted a freestanding turntable-not just a lazy susan bearing you put on top of a table, but a real work stand.   There are many purpose built stands available  from the better bonsai supply dealers, the only draw back being the price tag.

Im not afraid of a little Do -It-Yourself action, especially if it will save me some money.  In mulling over the problem, I figured that a good start would be on of the bar stools I had curb picked last year. There where a pair of wood bar stools out with the trash I was not too proud to stop and get them into the trunk. It amazes me at the variety of both useful and usable items that get thrown away every trash day.  I like to do what I can to keep useful items from taking up space in the landfill, so I will always stop and check, and usually load up.
Aside from one loose support rung, these stools were in good shape and were just the thing to pull up to the work bench, or to set a tree on top of while sitting in a lawn chair. For me the problem was that the tree still sat just a bit too low, and there are times when I'd like to work on a tree while standing up, and putting the stool on top of something like a milk crate was both inelegant and unsafe.

I had a dim memory of reading a Popular Mechanics article written by a guy who had built his own bonsai turntable gizmo. Part of the reason it stuck in my head, I think, was the fact that it was in Popular Mechanics, circa 1980. Especially that far back, I am very surprised to see mentions of anything bonsai related in the 'general literature".  This little splinter of memory had stuck in my head for a while, it's probably a quaint notion to say that though I was able to get to it now through the quick access of Google, by original locating of it was accomplished through the Reader's Guide to Periodical Literature!

The article that ran in Popular Mechanics was written by Frederic L Ballard, one of the founders of the National Bonsai Federation. His wife was Ernesta Drinker Ballard, who wrote one of the early books that brought bonsai culture to Americans, Growing Plants Indoors. Ballard's article and schematic drawing suggested just what you see in the photographs: using the basis of a sturdy stool to make a bonsai work stand. His idea was to use a piece of black pipe, with a flange at one end and cap at the other to be the main support of the work surface, which is cut from plywood.

The original article suggested using an X shaped arrangement of two pieces of lumber,installed  diagonally between the legs of the stool, to brace the lower end of the pipe. Due to the end cap, this would also limit upward travel.   I though that trying to make four cuts with compound angles was a bit more complicated that I wanted to attempt, so simply put one piece of wood on existing supports. Since there were two of these support on each side of the stool, I calculated that it would be plenty sturdy.

Ballard's idea for holding the table top and allowing for height adjustment was to use the tail stop from a pipe clamp.  Used for carpentry tasks like cabinet making where a large item has to be held securely, pipe clamps have a fixed portion at one end of the pipe that is adjustable for fine increments, and the  tail stop at the other end allows large adjustments. Sliding a lever allows the tail stop to be snugged up, then the little handle on the other end of the clamp is turned to make the final tension.

Since I had the stool, the plywood for the work surface as well as the wood for the bracing, had to purchase the following items:

• 36 inch length of 1/2 inch black pipe, threaded at each end. This was a standard item at my local hardware store (Roush Hardware, Westerville, support the small box guys)
• One end cap and one floor flange-the flange was already drilled for screws, saving me from doing it!
• Pan head sheet metal screws to attach the pipe stop to the stool, and also wood screws to go through the flange into the work surface.
• Enamel spray paint to render the project one uniform color, and protect new bare wood.
• The pipe clamp was purchased at Harbour Freight, mainly because their ubiquitous 20% off coupons made me feel much better about buying an item that I was going to throw away half of!
• TOTAL INVESTMENT=$30

Once all the parts were assembled, the project took one afternoon. The basic steps:

1. The stool was sanded to remove flaking paint and discoloration that had started on the unpainted seat. Loose support rungs were glued and allowed to dry overnight. A bungee cord works well to hold everything snug as the glue dries.
2. The work surface was cut from a piece of 3/4 inch plywood I already had, then sanded.  If you are buying this item for your project, there many options for plywood rounds already cut to size.
3. Two holes were drilled in the tail stop so that it could be attached to the seat of the stool. The stop has a thick coating of enamel on it, so I was afraid drilling would be a problem, Ballard directs using a center punch and hammer to make to two starting spots for the drilling, this doesn't seem to make a dent in the metal, but does chip off the enamel, which means the drill bit doesn't skate around. I drilled these two holes easily.
4. Drill a hole through the center of the seat to accommodate the black pipe, and drill the same size whole through the wood support piece as well. Holes will also need drilled for four screws attaching the work surface to the flange, two holes holding the pipe clam to the stool seat and screws holding the support slat to the rungs of the stool.
5. Once the needed holes are drilled, a power driver bit can be used to place the screws as needed to hold the parts together.
6. Once the wood parts are assembled, the black pipe can be screwed in the floor flange, then the pipe itself fitted into the pipe clamp and supporting wood slat,then 'capped off' with the end cap.
7. Sand wood surfaces and remove dust, then apply spray paint. Since some bare wood is used in the project, and project will come into contact with moist items like soil and may be left outside, liberal application of paint is encouraged.  I made a point of turning the completed item upside down and spraying the bottoms of the legs and other "underneath surfaces". Several coats of paint were spaced out until the can was empty.

Initial tests indicate the project was worth the time & money.   The clamp mechanism holds very securely, in only one direction, so while there is no way to push the thing down with out unlocking the adjustment lever, it can be moved upwards easily.  At full extension the work surface seems close to 5 feet tall, so considerations of tree size and top heavy tipping should be held in mind.

Tool Time!

The Columbus Bonsai Society's January session about tools and toolcare got me thinking about these important accessories to bonsai work. The Club’s beginner’s course coming up in April always features a unit on tools, and in preparing for that class and thinking about what was discussed at the January meeting, I was prompted  to do a little online shopping.

Posting the photo makes no endorsement for the tools, but look
at the shiny, stainless steel goodness! And that box is awesome all
on it's own, But is the whole thing worth $350? Not in my world.

Though it was enjoyable to window shop, I certainly DON’T need new tools. The basic set I started with some 25 years ago is still highly useful. Though it was a modestly priced student grade set that I got as a Christmas gift from my parents, they still work just like they should, even if they have not been sharpened in all that time! Keep your tools clean and well lubricated and they will pretty much last for ever. Even though I wasn’t going to buy anything, it was interesting to see the shiny new items available and perhaps try to talk myself into some stainless steel at long last.

One thing that might keep me from making that jump to stainless is price.  The axiom of getting what you pay for is certainly true of tools, and well made, high grade tools are very pricey.  I’ve always suspected that bonsai tools, since they are aimed at a limited market are a bit more pricey anyway, but even so, good craftsmanship and technical skill have a price. For someone who is ready and willing to make that commitment to their hobby, there are many options for purchase. After teaching a beginners class more than 10 years ago, I put together a newsletter article about how it was pretty easy and practical to put together a useful tool kit at a big box retail store, specifically using items that were not meant for bonsai but that could work just as well as specialized, imported from Japan items. I still stand by that basic idea, even though it was generated at a time, before the internet, when sourcing specialized bonsai items was harder to do.

The computer revolution has touched every facet of modern life, and bonsai is no exception.  Bonsai supplies are seemingly every where, in every electronic bazaar.  Single tools and sets of every size are available in all price points. Some seem like good value, others are snake oil.  It’s obviously harder to know, since buying online or by-mail means not being able to pick up and handle an item.  Low prices have a certain charm, but a shear or cutter that does not have a smooth action or will not hold an edge really isn’t a bargain.

Support your local vendor or retailer when you can!

Buying local, and buying general purpose items, rather than specialty products can be cost effective in a smart way however. The new bonsai student, who is not sure their interest will grow and hold, may be hesitant to invest a great deal until they are more certain of their enduring interest. I used to recommend that new bonsai hobbyists looking for tools keep an eye on Ebay, so that when someone who decided bonsai was not for them was selling off their tools, it would be possible to jump on a bargain. I guess that strategy might still work, but now what I see on Ebay are lots and lots and LOTS of listings for brand new tools, and finding tools that are value priced and worth the money requires some care. So to that just starting out student I recommend buying a few things that are not bonsai specific but will do the job.

For about $25 or so a novice bonsai hobbyist can get a serviceable set of 'substitute' tools that will take them through most projects and give them some experience.  I count that basic tool set as a scissor of some sort, a wire cutter and a concave cutter analog. That last item was one that I thought was both indispensable for bonsai, and impossible to replace with a 'regular' item, but I've changed my mind about that. Read on...

• Scissors or shears. I break them up into two types-the old fashioned, all-metal traditional sort, and the more modern metal with plastic handles variety.  It's easy to find the Made in China old time looking iron scissors very cheaply, though they look better than they work. Scissors made for the kitchen and marketed to Asian chefs look alot like bonsai scissors, and there are many other sources for good quality shears. I usually recommend the Fiskar's Microtip trimmer, available at any hardware store and many other retail outlets for around $10.00. Well made, and price friendly, it doesn't look like scissors but works very well and will last for ever. Stone Lantern, the online seller, has plastic handled Japanese shears for around $8.

These are flush cutters, made for wire
and other metal-they can cut bonsai wood
just as well.

Harbor Frieght flush cutters
in action on a willow leaf ficus.

• Wire cutters. There are several tools that will work for snipping bonsai size wire. You may lose out on the charm of a purpose made Japanese tool, but the cost savings cant be beat.  Harbour Frieght has some for$1.79!

• Concave cutter. Check the health and beauty section-a cuticle trimmer will work for small size branches (they are far cheaper than a mame/shohin cutter). Also, check the hardware store for a flush cutter. 

• Pliers. Not a necessity but a pair of pliers can be very useful, Purpose built Jin pliers have a small throat capacity to limit taking too big a bite and long handles for leverage. Western style pliers will need a bit more restraint while in use, but will do the job. 

• Tool box. Depending where you look, you'll find tool boxes, tackle boxes, sewing organizers and scrap book supply holders. in metal, wood, plastic and cloth.  Before shopping, it might be worth looking around the house to see what is being underutilized. And any smoke shop can supply, for free, the ideal caddy for a few tools-the ever useful cigar box!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Curious about Bonsai? 

This fascinating fusion of art and horticulture has a long history and has been taken up all around the world.  If you would like to learn more about creating and keeping miniature trees, an opportunity to get hands on knowledge is coming up soon.

The Columbus Bonsai Society  will conduct an introductory bonsai class Saturday, April 11,2015.  The one day session will be held in The Gustav and Bertha Reiner Horticultural Education Center at Oakland Nursery, 1156 Oakland Park Ave. Columbus. http://www.oaklandnursery.com/web/columbuscenter.html

The class will take place between 10:00 AM  and 3:00PM and is intended to be a thorough introduction to the art and craft of miniature trees, the Japanese bonsai.  Participants will learn basic  techniques to create, train and maintain bonsai trees in classroom and discussion phases of the session and then will put that knowledge to use in hands on workshops.

Each participant will begin the process of developing a bonsai.  Instructors will discuss many aspects of the art and horticulture of bonsai: including history, design, tools, styling techniques and others.  The main focus will be keeping the trees alive.

The class is intended for participants of all skill levels, no previous experience with bonsai-or plants of any kind is required.

Cost of the class is $45 which includes all necessary materials. A 2016 membership in the Columbus Bonsai Society is also part of the package.

To register or for more information : bonsaibeginners@yahoo.com

You may also leave questions on the interactive event webpage: cbsbonsaibeginners.blogspot.com

PLEASE NOTE: No walk in students can be accommodated-all participants must register.

A book review...

Dave De Groot’s original edition of Principles of Bonsai Design  would be easy to overlook. The small size volume is barely thicker than a pamphlet, is sized smaller than any paper back and has an odd spiral binding. Slick and glossy  it is not.

But that spiral binding is a valuable feature-this is a book with enough useful information to reread and study.  After a while design concepts will soak into a bonsai practioner’s head and hands from constant exposure. Find a way to convey those is often times a struggle.  De Groot has made the best effort I’ve come across to put that process into text and related illustrations.

It may seem like gilding the lily to bring out another edition-until you hold that edition in your hands.   This second edition is an advancement and an improvement on the first.  This is a full sized, hard bound book with an understated, not to say plain cover.  But under that  cover  are more than 250 pages of text, drawings, charts and photographs.

De Groot has been growing bonsai for 40 years, and served as curator of the renowned Pacific Rim collection for a quarter century.  His bonsai experience was gained in this country as well as Japan.  This book is a distillation of all that experience.  What makes the book both a treat to read and so effective at conveying concepts is the combination of the author’s vast specialized experience, and his ability to use other art forms and means of expression to help make his points. For example, when discussing tension as design element he makes some use of musical examples like Mary had a little Lamb and Bach’s Goldberg Variations. You get the impression that De Groot could be an engaging partner in a conversation on most any subject.

The book covers in absorbing detail the usual “traditional” bonsai styles as well as  more modern additions to the bonsai palate, considering influences from Chinese Pen-ching as well as other bonsai growing  areas.  The flat top style for bald Cypress, pioneered by American Vaugh Banting?  It’s here, as well  clear descriptions of some more exotic styles.  Degroot  offers clear, concise foundations of what contributes to each style and why it ‘works’.  Styles are grouped into logical bunches, based on trunk line, branch lines, styles based on landscape feature.

Pot selection is covered in equally thorough detail, bringing some clarity to what can be an intimidating and frankly confusing process. De Groot also covers the principles and conventions of display, a topic that I have not seen covered as extensively or as well in one place. His suggestions are worthwhile not just for formal show-type exhibition but also for the permanent growing area display. One bit of advice may seem obvious but makes sense-he proposes keeping a work area with projects in process in a different, not easily viewed area, away from the more ‘finished’ trees.

For as long as I can remember John Naka’s books have been recommended for the serious student of bonsai. Naka’s books are long out of print and expensive to purchase. It seems like sacrilege to say it, but DeGroot may have produced a worthy successor, not just a substitute but a replacement.

This book is available from http://www.stonelantern.com/ . Images on this post came from that website.